The correct option is 1 and 3 only.
Explanation
Ocean waves are primarily generated by the friction between wind and the surface water. The characteristics of waves-such as height, speed, and steepness-are determined by three main factors: wind speed, the duration of the wind, and the fetch (the distance of open water over which the wind blows).
Statement-wise Analysis:
- Statement 1 is Correct: The largest waves are typically found in open oceans because of the extensive fetch available. In open oceans, winds can blow over vast distances without obstruction, transferring more energy to the water and creating larger waves. Enclosed seas have limited fetch, restricting wave growth.
- Statement 2 is Incorrect: Steep waves are generally young waves formed by local winds. They have sharp crests and are irregular. As waves travel away from their source, they sort themselves out; the longer, faster waves outrun the shorter ones, and the wave profile becomes smoother. Therefore, old waves (swells) are typically less steep, not steeper.
- Statement 3 is Correct: Waves that originate from far away places are known as swells. Having traveled long distances out of the generating area, they lose the irregularity and steepness of local wind waves. These waves are characterized by a regular pattern and a steady rhythm.
Key Takeaway:
Fetch is the distance over which wind blows to generate waves. Steep, irregular waves are usually young and locally generated, whereas steady swells originate from distant sources and have traveled long distances.