The correct option is 2 and 3 only
Explanation
Ocean waves are energy traveling through water. In deep water, wave energy moves forward while water particles move in circular orbits (waves of oscillation). As waves approach the shore and enter shallow water, their behavior changes due to friction with the sea floor, transforming them into "surf."
Statement-wise Analysis
- Statement 1 is Incorrect. Surf is not formed exclusively by local winds. While local winds can generate waves, the surf observed on a beach is often the result of swells-waves generated by storms or winds thousands of kilometers away in the open ocean. These swells travel vast distances before reaching the shore and breaking as surf.
- Statement 2 is Correct. Surf is defined as the turbulent water created when waves break. As a wave approaches the shore, the bottom of the wave slows down due to friction with the seabed, while the top continues at the original speed. Eventually, the wave height increases, and the crest becomes unstable and topples over (breaks), dissolving into foam and bubbles known as surf.
- Statement 3 is Correct. In deep water, waves are "waves of oscillation," where water particles rotate in place without significant net forward movement. However, when waves break and become surf, they transform into waves of translation. In this phase, the water itself physically moves forward, rushing up the beach as "swash."
Key Takeaway
Surf represents the breaking of waves in shallow water, marking the transition from waves of oscillation (energy transfer) to waves of translation (physical water movement onto the shore).